Often the most memorable part of a trip has nothing to do with some famous annual event, or an iconic location in the country you’re visiting. I’m writing this entry having just returned from the Pushkar Fair in Rajasthan. The Pushkar fair is the centerpiece of the photo tour I do in India, so don’t get me wrong, I love the Pushkar fair, I’ve shot it eight times, it’s an amazing event, but often some seemingly insignifcant stop along the way provides an opportuinty to capture the image or images that define one’s trip and stick in one’s mind. This year was no exception.
I’m a believer that the camera and the process of photography helps us discover, or perhaps clarify something we already know, or a lesson that needs to be learned or reinforced in our minds. This is something I try to instill in the minds of those who come on my trips. In fact it’s part of my “orientation meeting” , given at the start of each tour. I tell folks to try to forget about schedules, deadlines and what lies ahead, and to instead, “live in the moment”, and that our most important lessons and our favorite photos will come when we least expect it.
This year’s most memorable images from the India tour are not necessarily my best images, but the story behind them is what I will remember most about the 2010 Pushkar Fair Photo trip.
We were staying in our normal location, a settlement of permanent tents in the village of Manvar, midway between Jaisalmer and Luni. In the late afternoon we took a jeep safari to a local home to see and photograph what life is like for folks living out in the desert. The families in this particular area are very welcoming and curious when visitors arrive, so it makes for a wonderful cultural exchange. In fact, we had visited this same home last year and so I decided that we should return again this year to see if anything had changed. It had; although only a year had passed the young woman I had photographed the prior year seemed much older. Life is hard in India. (see last year’s photo above).
The home we visited is that of a family of “untouchables”. They are from India’s lowest social class. They do subsistence farming; own a single cow and several goats. They live their life on a day to day basis, on the ragged edge, relying mostly upon nature’s bounty, or lack thereof.
There’s a young woman there…she is, in her own way, and in the simplest of terms, beautiful. I had taken her picture last year, I remembered her face. As we arrived at her family compound, she was out picking up cow manure with her bare hands. She saw us arriving and quickly stowed the cow manure in a drying area near the kitchen.
By the time I approached her, she had then started washing dishes, including two tea cups,and several metal plates, using a tiny bit of soapy water and some sand from the ground.
As she squatted, cleaning the dishes, she continuously pulled the veil over her face as most Rajasthani women do in the presence of men.
Every time she looked up, I smiled, motioning with my camera as if to say “may I take your photograph”? eventually, she nodded in agreement. Now that she had agreed to be photographed, what went through my head was that I wanted to create images that showed the strength and confidence with which she carried herself. I wanted to show how beautiful she was, and how; despite the fact that she was considered “an untouchable”, that she was worthy of respect.
It was quite obvious that she had come from a very different background than me or any of the members of our tour group. She had never attended an ivy league school, the opera, the ballet or anything close to it. She had probably never seen, even from a distance, a five star hotel. She’s never had the luxury of clean, running water, a squat toilet or electricity. The tents we were staying in were far cleaner and more luxurious than her humble home. She’d likely never tasted caviar, fine wine, or even a Starbuck’s coffee. She ate lentils, rice and occasionally, mutton.
We handled our expensive camera gear, with lily white, clean fingers, while she handled cow droppings and goat’s utters with her rough, calloused hands. We all had nice watches, high tech travel clothes, jewelry, gold, diamonds, iPads, Gucci purses and Prada bags. She adorned herself with not even a single semi precious stone. On her thin arms were plastic bangles and on her ankles, steel bracelets. She carried her belongings in a torn canvas bag, yet there was something amazing and wonderful about her and the way she carried herself; a sense of confidence and pride. I continued photographing her, long after most of the group had moved along to photograph other subjects. At one point myself and another photographer followed her as she went to the well to fetch water. By now she was shyly interacting with us…giggling, laughing and having fun.
After fetching water, she went back into her kitchen, where a small baby could be heard crying. I followed. She rummaged around in the kitchen momentarily and then went back outside and began milking a goat.
After collecting about 12 oz of milk, she returned to the kitchen and squatted in front of a fire of smoldering embers. With a few dried shards of wood, she stoked the fire and began to boil the milk. I could tell that she was preparing tea for me. When the milk had boiled, she added tea and spice, then filtered it through what looked like an old sock into one of the cups that she had just washed out with sand and offered it to me.
What to do? …oh, what the hell, I thought to myself; how can I refuse her, then I drank the tea. It was delicious; spicy, and sweet. Out of the corner of my eye I could see that she was watching intently to see my reaction. I sipped again and smiled to let her know that I approved. A proud smile washed across her face.
It was in many ways just a simple exchange, a sharing of some photos and a cup of tea, but it’s probably the experience on this year’s tour, that I remember most. It serves as a reminder to me that folks everywhere are for the most part friendly, open and hospitable.
I wondered what she thought of me, this “rich”, educated, white person from a far away land. Did she think of me as being above her because of our “caste” differences? I hoped that she wasn’t thinking that. I wanted her to know that even though we came from very different worlds, that she deserved my respect, not because of economic achievement or social status but simply because she was my fellow human being.
Then I thought to myself; if the roles were reversed, would I allow her to come into my home and take my picture? Would I make tea for her? I would like to think so. Perhaps I’ll use this story in the future, as a way of reminding myself, and encouraging my photo tour clients, to be sensitive and respectful to others.
Thanks for reading,
Karl
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Gavin Gough Here, beautifully told and photographed, is the very reason why I got into travel photography. Not for the images themselves but for experiences like this. The most uplifting, inspiring and memorable moments can often be found in the most humble of environments.
I’ve also learned that it is often those with least who give most and that rather than being looked down upon, it is frequently those who live a modest life who show us qualities to aspire to.
What a great experience. Thanks for sharing 🙂
This is a beautiful document of life that very few people ever see. Thanks for the great work!
Gavin, thanks for chiming in on this one, your comment is spot-on!
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Jeff, thanks, I appreciate your comment. Just checked your blog…great stuff…loved your “Pat the bar keep” images! bravo!
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Wonderful photographs, and an inspiring tale. Thanks for sharing this, Karl. I admire your approach and integrity. As a passionate amateur travel photographer, your words resonate strongly with my own experience. Thanks also for the wonderful resource which I find in your blog.
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You truly captured the beauty and dignity of this young lady, her life and routine chores! Bravo!
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Karl, after i found your blog, some year ago, I have been admiring your photos ever since. As an amateur photographer, i see very well that I have a few things to learn about photography!
This story about The Untouchable woman is just beautiful. The beautiful colors was the first thing i notised. But when i started reading the story about the photos i saw that this was not just another photoshoot. This is a story about human relationship, communication and respect.
Maybe this woman did just what the world needs today, opening her doors for total strangers and treating you with respect, just as you treated her with respect. Respect for other people and cultures is what we need in the world today.
Thank you for sharing this story Karl.
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Hi Mario, thanks for your comment. Hey, I see that IGVP is going very very well. Congratulations to you….it seems that your dream has come to fruition. My hat is off to you. Keep up the great work!
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Dear Willy, Thanks for your comments. I think you’re correct, what we all need is the chance to connect on a one-to-one basis. Despite cultural differences, people everywhere have the same needs and desires….to live at peace, to respect one another. I am sure that your photography and your travel interactions are doing just that, so keep it up! cheers, Karl
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Hey Buddy
Great story!
You are very good at this, you should write more articles and stories like this, when time allows you.
One more lesson learned.
Cheers
Celso Mollo
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Wonderful story….and your photos, as always, take my breath away. I also had an experience with a mother from an untouchable caste, in Bihar. Her name was Fula Devi, and I keep her photo on my desk. Someday I will travel with you again, my friend.
Amazing images. Bet the experience was even better…
Thanks Kim, it is truly amazing how we learn life-lessons isn’t it. Travel teaches us so much.
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Hi Matea,
Thanks for the compliment, and yes the experience was even better! Congratulations on your photography and blog, I enjoyed your Guatemala images and your Nomads slide show. Keep up the great work
Karl,
Beautiful story and images. This should be a National Geographic Cover story!
Well done my friend!
Terry
Karl,
Thanks for sharing those great images and story. This is also the reason I became a photographer. I believe the camera gives us an opening, a license to enter people’s lives, albeit however briefly, and experience other worlds. It brings us out of our comfort zones, and makes us richer for the experience.
Karl,
this reportage shows a side of you that we, on the photo tour, were not always aware of. Maybe it was because we were too busy trying to bring back home some images to show our friends instead of living in the present. Your beautiful images are well supported by your touching words. Thanks for the lesson. Take care.
Karl-
I am certain you disspelled any perceptions SHE had about the people and cultures outside of her world. What a neat capture of the human element at its core. I believe that the more we know about other people’s worlds, the more we learn about our own…and you’ve shown that. Thanks for sharing such beautiful photographs. More than that, thank you for making us feel like we were sharing tea with you!
Carl,
Thanks for your comment…often times I don’t get the opportunity to do any sort of real reportage on these trips because I’m too busy helping other group members with their photography. I did really enjoy this particular opportunity….it was a bit more like what I do, capturing human interest stories for my NGO clients.
Anietra,
Thanks for your nice comment. I can’t help but be reminded of your wonderful interaction with the locals in the Cholon Market in Saigon. You and your mother had them all smiling and laughing. Those types of positive interactions help to dispelling negative stereotypes too. Those experiences are so much a part of the magic and joy of travel, and of photography.
Karl,
Joan and I follow your blog very consistently but the story about the Untouchable woman is absolutely wonderful in all aspects. The words you “attached” to those images were even more revealing and gave tremendous insight about what was happening both in your mind and hers!!
Great seeing you in Pushkar a few weeks ago. We always think about you and glad all is well.
Love,
George and Joan
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Dear George and Joan,
George, thanks so much for your nice insights and compliments. I really do appreciate you taking the time to write in.
Also, it was absolutely wonderful to see you guys at Pushkar. What a surprise you both gave me! I did a total “deja-vu” double-take, when I saw Joan standing there. I thought I was seeing things!
I’ll bet you and Joan captured some great images from the Pushkar Fair and from the rest of your India trip, so if you have any photos to share, send a few via email, or point me to any online collections you might have.
I’m eventually going to post some “members images” on my blog and I will include the “reunion shot” of the three of us.
George, I’ll never forget, nor will I ever be able to sufficiently thank you for saving me from lyme disease, treating my cervical disc compression with prednisone, monitoring my bilateral conjunctivitis and treating me for all the other countless medical conditions that I had when you were on trips with me!
You guys are the best of travelers, and I really enjoy your company. I wish all my photo tours were full of folks just like you.
Have a wonderful holiday season, and please stay in touch.
All the best,
Karl
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Hey Buddy
Nice pics, Great writeup, really you feel “touch of untouchable”… her tea was your exam, you passed with 200%, she just wanted to make sure what these white skin people think about our social structure in India. Karl accepting her tea means a lot for her. After that she probably started believing that you think they are also human beings rather then UNTOUCHABLE…
You rock Karl….. BRAVO for this
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Karl — I’m so proud of you for drinking the tea and entering her life for a moment. I know how squirmy you get when I eat all sorts of weird food on your trips, so I know that was a big choice for you — especially given that your health is so critical to your livelihood. You both took risks for each other. She risked rejection and humiliation, and you met her and honored her with your own risk.
I’m proud to know you.
Thank you so much for sharing these photographs… words cannot express how much of an impact they make, dear sir.
Karl,
I’ve followed your work for quite a while now and you never cease to amaze me. Your caring attitude sets you apart, far apart. Keep up the good work. You are truly an inspiration.
mark
Thanks Mark, I really appreciate your compliment!
Thanks Winter!
thanks Ruth…hey, by the way next time we have to try the fried tarantula in Camboida?
Thanks DV! and I didnt get sick on that tea, like I did in Varanasi!
Hi Karl,
Wonderful series focusing on one person and giving us the opportunity to get to know her a little better. Just got back from India myself but didn’t make an opportunity such as this to spend some time with a specific person. (I didn’t get sick at all despite drinking a lot of tea from questionably clean glasses and cups.) Question for you about light: Did you use flash at all for some of the interior images? The light looks quite natural and almost like sunlight entering a doorway or window.
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Hi Dean,
Thanks for the comment.
In terms of your question about flash. Nope, no flash used. I avoid flash at all costs, preferring to use natural light. In this case bouncing in through the door to the hut that the woman is in.
Cheers,
Karl
Hi Karl, this is Gina from Germany.
I was at the Pushkar Mela in 2006. I enjoyed seeing your photos. They made me re-live my stay there.
Thanks for sharing and congrats to the fine blog.
Greetings
Gina from Germany
Thanks Regina!
I really appreciate your comment.
Karl,
What a wonderful combination of beautiful photos and thoughtful text to tell such a moving story. It has left me with lots to think about and much to aspire to, both photographically and in interactions with others. Keep up the great work!
-Doug
Thanks Doug, I really appreciate your comment! Hope you’re doing well. By the way, I love the new look of your website and blog.
Cheers. Karl
Beautiful work, and a wonderful story as well! I believe that she sensed that you were genuinely interested in her life and her story, and she knew that you respected her, and that is why she allowed you access to photograph her. Very well done!
Wonderful story and beautiful photographs. I love the colours found in Rajasthan.
I have been thinking about the best way to get human interaction and interesting portrait shots of Indians (from anywhere, any cast) and I think the answer is to simply drink lots of chai 🙂
Yes Sean, I think you’re correct…drinking chai seems to be among the best ways to get to know the locals!
Beautiful story Karl,
My wife and I too have had similar experiences in Cambodia over the years, but from a village community rather than a single family and to assuage our guilt have purchased rainwater tanks, water buffalo, anything that we could see that would be a hand up for them rather than a hand out.
Nothing ever prepares you for the generosity of those who have nothing. It is always such a humbling experience.
Thanks for sharing, love the shots
Tim
Karl,
Thank you for sharing these heartfelt photographs and wonderful story.
-H
Thank Henry, I appreciate your comment! I also checked out your blog, and your photography. Excellent work! Take care and happy holidays, Karl
Hi Tim, thanks for your comment and your personal insights and experiences. It’ great to receive, but even better to give isn’t it!
Have a nice holiday,
Karl
Karl,
Thank you for visiting my blog. Appreciate it. I wish you and your family a happy holiday wherever you are in the world. Keep em photos coming!
Cheers,
-H
What a great story to go along with your beautiful pictures. I’ve been to India three times and loved every one of the trips. Pushkar was very interesting and I smoked a lot of chips there. India is one of my favorite places to visit. I went with Jim to Oaxaca this year and hope to travel with you sometime in the future.
Amazing pictures and a truly soul touching account of your experience!
It is amazing to know your respect for the fellow (Untouchable) human being! Sensible thoughts all over!
Thank you for sharing this, Karl. What a graceful, stunning woman!